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I am renovating a house built in the early '40s and it has probably the original cast iron tub w/ probably replacement sayco faucet and probably original standard drain and overflow Moving the tub away from the wall by. It is an odd design in that there is a rod that runs horizontally.

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The drain threads down into the shoe below and clamps the tub using the rubber washer between the tub and the shoe for sealing Predictably its center drain is directly above the floor joist Using tape on the threads prevents it from threading down all the way.

We have a tub that recently started draining slowly and now drains very slowly

I initially plunged which didn't help I then went to use a snake and opened up the overflow When i took out the tub stopper, i found. The new tub drain assembly i have is exactly the same size as the brass pipe

So, there is no getting the pvc inside that brass pipe Given that, can i just use a simple pvc slip coupler Or would i need to use something else There is a ton of room to trim the bottom of the pvc drain assembly, so finished height won't be a problem.

For my shower and tub drain i used a high grade silicone to set the drain assembly instead of plumbers putty

It seems like people do both Thanks ahead of time for any advice? The tub drain seals with the rubber washer between the tub and the drain shoe I have used stainless putty on those

Sometimes the tub waste and overflow comes with a thin ring that goes down It hardly matters what you use there, as long as it doesn't stain the tub. I have seen some so called stainfree plumbers puttys Do you plumbing pros use silicone or stainfree plumbers putty

I feel like if the tub manufacturer says to use silicone then you will have no warranty on the tub if you use plumbers putty, but i would much rather not glue the drain onto the tub with silicone.

Installed new tub and attached the drain pipes Both the drain pipe coming off the tub and the drain pipe coming out from the flooring are the same size and are offset by a few inches I purchased a brass drain kit because most of the pipes will be located in a crawl space and we get very cold. The tub i prefer is the 2425 model which requires the drain to be 16 from the side wall

That falls in the middle of the joist I can live with the 2776 model which would be 14 3/4 from the wall and that should work with the existing drain location but that tub is not as deep as the 2425. We would like your feedback on options to modify plumbing for our bath remodel (2nd floor) We have this specific location for a small 53x 30 acrylic freestanding tub (w/ integrated overflow)